Everything You Need To Know About The Patek 5990

Sep 29, 2022
Everything You Need To Know About The Patek 5990

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time 5990 is hailed as an excellent timepiece for the travelling businessman. Robust yet elegant, this watch oozes an exquisite confidence that is perfect for the modern man. Its versatility in form and function allows this watch to serve as a sports piece, dress watch, and even as a handy GMT¥ watch for frequent fliers.

This Patek 5990 belongs to the brand’s flagship Patek Philippe Nautilus collection. It combines one of Gerald Genta’s finest most recognisable designs with top-notch watchmaking technology and features, creating an absolutely elite GMT watch.

Read on to find out more about the Patek 5990 and everything that it has to offer. 

Patek 5990: A Background

The Patek 5990 has garnered the distinction of being the king of the Patek Philippe Nautilus range. Not only does it boast exceptional luxury and style, the Patek 5990 is also notable for being the first chronograph model to join the Nautilus collection.

Patek Philippe released two different Patek 5990 models in 2014. These two variants primarily differ in terms of the materials used. The first is the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1A-001, which shows off a sleek exterior made entirely from stainless steel. The other is the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1R-001, which shows off a luxurious build made of 18K rose gold.

Even though the Patek 5990 has been discontinued since January 2022, it is still regarded as one of the Patek Philippe’s greatest watchmaking accomplishments.

Anatomy of the Patek 5990

Side View of the Patek 5990

Case, Bezel, and Caseback

The Patek 5990 comes in a chunky-looking case that measures 40.5mm in diameter and 12.5mm in thickness. These dimensions are quite standard, allowing the Patek 5990 to fit nicely and comfortably on wrists of all sizes. 

The case of the Patek 5990/1A-001 is crafted from robust and highly scratch-resistant stainless steel, which gives the watch a very clean and professional look. The Patek 5990/1R-001, on the other hand, has a case made from 18K rose gold. Although this rose gold material is slightly less durable than stainless steel, it is also able to withstand scratches and shocks quite well. It has a more lavish vibe, giving the Patek 5990/1R-001 a more high-end, dressy aesthetic. 

Affixed to the top of the watch case is a distinctive octagonal bezel. The brainchild of Gerald Genta, this unique octagonal bezel is a signature of the Nautilus collection. This lustrous bezel has a smoothly brushed surface and angular, polished sides that are well bevelled. Aside from providing the watch face with additional protection, this bezel also adds to the watch’s robust and assertive style. 

Flipping the watch over, you will find a see-through caseback which gives you a clear view of the watch’s movement. You can also see the movement’s beautiful yellow gold bridge, which is marked with the brand’s trademark Calatrava Cross logo. 

This caseback is firmly screwed down, which keeps any moisture or dust from leaking into the Patek 5990. It contributes to the watch’s solid 120-metre depth rating. 


The dial of the Patek 5990 is yet another highlight. It shows off a pattern of submerged horizontal lines that run across the entire watch face, which gives the watch a very sophisticated look. This dial is decorated with rectangular applique hour indices and rounded blunt hands, along with a sweeping stick-like seconds hand. These components are filled with white lume, which helps to illuminate the watch face in the dark. 

As a chronograph watch, the Patek 5990’s dial also contains a small sub-dial at 6 o’clock for the 60-second counter. At 12 o’clock, you can find another sub-dial for the radial date display. Placed on the left and right sides of the dial are two small squares that are labelled “LOCAL” and “HOME”. These serve as the day/night indicators for two different time zones, local and home. It is a complication particularly suited to frequent travellers. 

The two different Patek 5990 models also come with different dial colourways. The Patek 5990/1A-001 has a gorgeous grey-black sunray finish, which blends in well with its all-stainless steel exterior. This dial exudes a more serious and assertive vibe, which fits well with the Patek 5990/1A-001’s professionalism. 

The Patek 5990/1R-001, on the other hand, showcases a rich blue sunray finish that easily draws the eye. Combined with its beautiful rose gold case, this blue dial watch boasts a regal stylishness that is perfect for the dance floor. 

Patek 5990 Movement
Patek Philippe Watches


The Patek 5990 runs on an in-house CH 28-520 C Caliber. This powerful automatic movement is made up of an incredible 370 components and 34 jewels. Beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), this movement possesses a solid power reserve of 55 hours. 

The CH 28-520 C Caliber comes with a Gyromax balance, which contributes to its power supply of more than two days. It is also equipped with a 21K yellow gold central rotor and an ultra-thin Spiromax balance spring which boosts the movement’s resistance against extreme temperatures and strong magnetic fields. 

Bracelet and Caseback of the Patek 5990


The Patek 5990 is paired with a metallic H-link bracelet that is either made from stainless steel or rose gold, depending on the model you are looking at. It shows off magnificent finishing, with satin-brushed outer links and polished centre links.

This bracelet is also equipped with a double fold-over clasp that keeps it securely fastened to your wrist. The rose gold version of this bracelet comes with an additional safety lock, while the stainless steel variant does away with it. 

Price and Availability

The Patek 5990 is often hailed as the King of the Nautilus range, and it has a price tag that is befitting of that status. This watch retails at a price of $106,450 USD. 

However, since the Patek 5990 has been discontinued, its rarity and impeccable craftsmanship mean that the value of this watch has only continued to appreciate. Today, it can be sold on second hand sites for almost half a million dollars.  

Final Thoughts 

Front View of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time 5990/1R-001
Patek Philippe Watches

On the whole, the Patek 5990 is a well-built and highly versatile GMT watch that has a lot to offer. Combining exquisite form with practical function, this is the perfect GMT piece for businessmen who find themselves travelling very often. 


Banner photo courtesy of The Watch Company and Patek Philippe watches.

Although some titles like the Nautilus 5990 have been discontinued, there are more timepieces that Patek Philippe are worthy of your attention and wrist. Check out the history of Aquanaut in this article.

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